2015年6月27日 星期六

聖母峰之死 Into Thin Air

聖母峰之死
Into Thin Air
Jon Krakauer──著
宋碧雲、林曉欽──譯
大家出版社──出版
via cite.com
「人類演出悲劇,是因為他們不相信現實中的悲劇。但悲劇,其實都發生在文明世界裡。」
“Men play at tragedy because they do not believe in the reality of the tragedy which is actually being staged in the civilised world.”
──José Ortega y Gasset 
via wiki
 It would seem almost as though there were a cordon drawn round the upper part of these great peaks beyond which no man may go. The truth of course lies in the fact that, at altitudes of 25,000 feet and beyond, the affects of low atmospheric pressure on the human body are so severe that really difficult mountaineering is impossible and the consequences even of a mild storm may be deadly, that nothing but the most perfect combinations of weather and snow offers the slightest chance of success, and that on the last lap of the climb no party is in position to choose its day...
 No, it is not remarkable that Everest did not yield to the first few attempts; indeed it would have been very surprising and not a little sad if it had, for that is not the way of great mountains. Perhaps we had become a little arrogant with our fine new technique of ice-claw and rubber slipper, our age of easy mechanical conquest. We had forgotten that the mountain still holds the master card, that it will grant success only in its own good time. Why else does mountaineering retain its deep fascination?
Eric Shipton, in 1938, 
Upon that Mountain
  這些巍峨高峰的上半部彷彿劃出一條警戒線,誰也越不過。癥結在於,到了海拔七千六百公尺以上,低氣壓對人體的影響極為劇烈,根本不可能進行真正艱困的登山活動,一場輕微的暴風雪就可能帶來致命的後果,唯有最完美的氣候和積雪情況能提供些微的成功機會,而在攀登的最後階段誰也不可能挑日子……
  不,聖母峰在一開始沒讓人輕易得逞,這並不足為怪。說真的,聖母峰若輕易投降才叫人吃驚,而且將非常可悲,有失大山風範。也許我們有了冰爪和橡皮便鞋等優良新科技,有了長年以機械輕鬆征服萬物的歷史,變得有些傲慢了。我們忘記高山仍握有王牌,只在自己覺得恰當的時機頒出成功的獎牌。否則登山怎麼會深深蠱惑人心呢?
席普頓,一九三八年
《那座山上》